It's Tuesday evening, and I have two days to write about. Was way too exhausted last night.

Yesterday was all about shopping. Finally. You know how much I loved that! We went to La Marche des Puces (aka the Paris Flea Market). Apparently the web site saying they opened at 8:30 is outdated, because on Monday it is widely know to all (but us) that they don't open until at least 10. We got there by about 9 and everything was locked tight. So, we were forced to do what anyone else would have done. Went to a cafe, of course! I wasn't really hungry, but there was a basket of fresh croissants on the bar. Since I only have a few more days to eat bread,  I quickly ordered one. When I asked the bartender for some butter she said "Madam, there's lots of butter IN the croissant." I said "Oui, I know, but I want more." She just shook her head and brought the butter.

The stalls finally started opening at about 10, so we shopped for a couple of hours through stalls selling everything from vintage clothes and purses to beads and buttons to furniture and paintings and all sorts of glorious junk. I could've easily spent two weeks there. Total heaven. I thought the prices were even worse than 3 years ago, although someone later told me the prices had dropped quite a bit since the dollar was so bad (apparently Americans are the primary consumer of items from the flea market). We drooled over some cool paintings but the vendor was not willing to bargain. However, I did hit pay dirt at a vintage jewelry store. This lovely British woman had a darling store with vintage jewelry and after trying on everything in the place, I finally settled on a cool pair of carved coral earrings. She told us a story of a time when she and her sister came to the US, bought an old taxi in Seattle and drove all over the US (8000 miles!) until it died. How fun does that sound? She said it never dawned on them that driving through the desert without so much as water or a phone in the summer wasn't the smartest thing to do.

Before leaving, we decided to have lunch. Mostly because we had to pee. Let me explain something about the flea market. This is not a nice part of town, so I had very low expectations for the food choices. But we were desperate for a toilette so we stopped at an Asian place and hoped for the best. After ordering the plat du jour from someone who spoke neither English or French, we got these things that looked like egg rolls and were spicy chicken wraps called nems. OMG, so good. Then I got this huge plate of lemon chicken and Cantonese rice. It was outstanding. So much so that I ate long past the point of being hungry. I just couldn't leave any. And, the toilettes were spotless. :) What was annoying though, were the guys at the next table. They were talking about us, assuming we knew no French. First they said that since we were blonde that we must have been English. Then they were apparently admiring our cleavage (there wasn't much of it to see, but since French women don't show any, apparently any was quite enjoyable). Glad we made their day. :)

After lunch, went our separate ways. AnneMarie went to the Basilique St. Denis to see where all of the kings and queens are buried. Marie Antionette is buried there, as well as kings dating back to 500AD. They are holding a place for Charles V (who succeeded Napoleon) but he died in exile so can't be buried there until he is out of exile. Since he's been dead for over 100 years, not sure how that will ever happen.

I went to Sacre Ceour, or I should say I tried to go. When I got there, there were at least 10 tours with at least 100 people per tour in each. I just didn't have the energy to fight the crowd. So, I just rose around on the Montmartobus up and down these absolutely vertical and very narrow streets in Montmarte. These bus drivers must have nerves of steel. So, once I tired of that, I did what any self-respecting woman in Paris would do. I went shopping, of course!

Took the bus to the Louvre area, which is my hood from my first trip, so I could shop on the Rue St. Honore. Bought some chocolates and macaroons at my favorite chocolate shop, then went in this cute store that had really fun jewelry in the windows. The most charming man from Amsterdam owns it, and I sat and talked to him for well over an hour. He was saying how much he loves Arizona and we talked about real estate in Paris (no price reductions here). He was so incredibly nice that I gave him my contact info and told him to call me if he ever comes to AZ again. Oh, and I also bought two rings. :)

I must tell you about dinner. On the way, we walked through the Four Seasons George V, which is (IMO) the most beautiful hotel in Paris. The flower arrangements are stunning - these large glass cylinders with bunches of flowers tired together and leaning out the top, their stems barely in the water. As a matter of fact, the flowers are so gorgeous that the florist now has his own show on TLC (he's an American living in Paris).

Ok, so getting back to dinner. We went to the Fontaine de Mars, which is over near the Eiffel area. We sat outside so we could see the actual fountain it is named after. Really charming little square. We started with their appetizer of the day, which was a crab and avocado mixture on crostinis. I can't even describe how good it was. Just melted in your mouth. Then I had a filet with bernaise sauce and pommes frites. AMC had their flank steak with roasted potatoes. This was accompanied by a couple glasses of nice beaujolais (which went nicely with my pain pill BTW - my feet didn't hurt at all!) and a chocolate mousse for desert. It was our best meal so far, without a doubt.

Very full but happy. Great way to end the day!

We left the city today for the first time and went to Chateau du Fontainebleau. This required taking one metro to another metro in order to get to Gare du Lyon. After multiple flights of stairs and escalators, we finally got to the correct train track. The train was almost empty and was really nice and went super fast. We arrived in Fontainebleau about 30 minutes later. Then we had to take another bus to the chateau, followed by a walk of a few blocks.

Fontainebleau is smaller than Versailles, which is a good thing. Much more digestible. It is a royal palace that was inhabited by several monarchs and emperors, most famous of which is Napoleon. There is a Napoleon Museum, the Grand Apartments, and the Petit Apartments. We made the huge mistake of taking the Petit Apartments tour first, which forced us to follow around a French-speaking guide for over an hour. We were unable to understand most of what he said but were unable to leave the tour because there were only 4 of us on the tour, and we were in an obscure part of the chateau. Everything in this part of the chateau has seen better days. They were completely unrenovated rooms that I believe were intended to show the complete state of disrepair the chateau had fallen into after Napoleon's reign was over. Our tour guide was a very expressive Frenchman who went on and on in every gloomy room that was full of cracked walls, peeling paint, and disintegrating fabric. It was a complete shit hole. About half way through we were so done with the tour that I completely lost my shit and couldn't stop laughing. It was rude, I know, but I couldn't help myself.

Then we finally got to the gorgeous parts of the chateau. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on your perspective) where we started the tour was actually the end. So we were swimming upstream to see these incredibly massive rooms with ornate ceilings, fabrics, frescos and furniture. It was amazing. There are huge fountains and gardens that we were in the middle of when it began to rain. But, it didn't last long and cleared up enough that we could sit outside and have a pastry at an outdoor cafe. OMG, have I mentioned the pastries? Or the cheese, bread and wine? I have eaten more of each of these things every single day than I have in a year. Given all of the walking, I hope it's a wash when all is said and done. Anyway, I just want to close my description of the chateau by saying that the entire grounds smelled like ass. Despite this, it was still an awesome e place to visit, and it was great to have a bit of a quieter day.

Helped AnneMarie get some money from an ATM today. This is noteworthy only because she never does this and was convinced her card would be confiscated. When both card and money were spit out, she was overjoyed, only to spend it all on an incredibly over-priced glass of bad wine in Montmarte this evening. We have bought some seriously good bottles of wine for like 5E (about $7) yet paid 11E each for one bad glass. Only bad thing I've had so far. All of Montmarte is disappointing now, actually. All of the charm of the painters who used to set up their easels right in the square and up and down the windy steep streets have been replaced by commercial junk shops and restaurants. Probably due to the economy.

The washer/dryer in our apartment is making me nuts. It is a combined unit that both washes and dries, but it seems to only like to wash, several times in a row. Everything is really clean, but really wet and really, really hot. Thankfully we can put things outside to dry. Tried reading the user guide in French and think I am doing everything correctly and it still doesn't appear to be drying. 2 more minutes till my latest attempt is done.

Have I mentioned the cheese? I'm obsessed.

Can't believe our trip is half over already...

After a lovely breakfast of homemade French toast with strawberries (thanks Anne Marie!) we headed out to the Jardin du Luxembourg, which is the second largest park in Paris that contains a palace built by Marie De Medici who was married to King Henry VI. She modeled it after the Pitti Palace in her native Florence. The grounds are beautiful and there is a grotto with mossy-covered fountains and lots of big trees. Lots of people jogging or walking. There was a statue named L'Effort that we thought strongly resembled a guy making a big effort to fart. It appears that he has been trying for hundreds of years. Poor thing.

We shopped at a cool street market in St. Germaine des Pres, had lunch, and visited St. Sulpice church (made famous by the Davinci Code, forcing the church to post several documents saying it was just a story).

Spent the afternoon at Pere LaChaise cemetery. Sounds kind of creepy, I know, but it is very peaceful and very picturesque with lots of big trees. And lots of hills and steps. So done with steps. :(   Tons of famous people buried here - we visited the graves of Edith Piaf, Sarah Bernhardt, Modigliani, Gertrude Stein, Oscar Wilde, and Jim Morrison.

On the way home, lots of security cops on the metro. Not sure what was up but it seemed like they were looking for someone. A little unsettling for sure, but all was well for our ride.

Had dinner at a cafe (and we actually got cold sitting outside - no complaints here) then I stopped and had a massage on the way home in an attempt to help my aching feet. They seriously hurt so bad that I almost don't want to do any walking. Almost.

I always have great days on Friday the 13th, and today was no exception. Out first stop was the crypts of Notre Dame (not a burial place but rather history of the site). However, I was unable to stay under ground too long because of the Pan Festival being held in front of ND. This is a bread (pan) making competition between top professional chefs from various regions of France, and it was a riot! You could watch chefs making dough, rolling out the various shapes of the bread or croissants they were making. Best of all, free samples while being serenaded by two old guys who sounded sorta Octoberfest-ish. Very charming and fun.

Next was the Pompidou Centre of Modern Art. This building is way cool, with all of the plumbing, ducts and construction on the outside of the building and you ride up six flights of escalators on the side of the building to get to the museum. Now I like modern art quite a lot, and some of it was great, but some just didn't seem worthy. Like a string of christmas lights hung in a scalloped pattern on the wall. Seriously? But, lunch on the roof deck was magnificent. Ultra cool setting with a great view. And the food was even good.

Got lost in the Marais so took the metro to the Opera and was propositioned by a guy who worked in a bakery I stopped at. He said you're from America right? And I said that I was. Then he said "you should have dinner with me tonight. I'm a really good cook." When I said merci but non merci, he said "but how will you ever see me again?" with a huge grin on his face. Like never seeing him again would surely be a fate worse than death. The lady behind me thought he was quite original. gotta give him credit. I told her she should have dinner with him, then. And, all this despite the Birkenstocks!

Gabriel came by to water our plants and chatted with us for a whike. He is such a sweet man and said that everyone in France is so pleased that bin Laden is dead and they think Obama is the best president ever for having achieved that.

The Louvre is open late on Fridays so we went. Last day of our Museum pass. Hardly anyone there. A special exhibit of Rembrandt's drawings of Christ was there a well. Walked the Grand Gallery and took in the huge paintings, almost by myself. Walked right up to Mona Lisa without another sole in the room! That was so unexpected and awesome. We stayed until they closed at 10pm.

Must got to bed...

To finish up Thursday May 12... The day ended with shopping since Thursday night is the only night stores stay open late. Galleries Lafayette and Galleries Printemps are both huge department stores with beautiful stained-glass cupola ceilings. Totally inspires you to spend money. I know, I don't really need any inspiration. Anyway, bought two perfumes from this delightful perfumer and AnneMarie found her treasured John Galliano perfume she'd gotten at Harrod's but could never find again. We both smell really good. Then we hopped a bus so we could see the lights come on at the Eiffel Tower at 10pm. It is so touristy but I just love it!

Imagine upon waking that your first sight of the day is two guys hanging from ropes on the building across the street. They are washing the windows without so much as any platform on which to stand or place their supplies. They were rappelling down the building on long-ass ropes from the top of a 9-story building! I hope they get paid a lot of money. We tried not to distract them while taking pictures and gawking. Would hate to be responsible for them falling.

We waited in line for the Opera Garnier to open to see if we could get tickets for the Bolshoi Ballet, but they are completely sold out. :( So, just toured the opera instead. I say "just" like this is somehow a letdown. Not! There was no one there yet, so I was able to take pictures of the grand staircase with no one on them, as well as the incredibly ornate reception hall with no one in it! This never happens. Met a lovely woman from Scotland, Sandra, who tagged along as I was trying to get upstairs so I could get into the theatre. Every staircase was closed for renovation, so a workman told us of an elevator that took us right up to an open loge that we could get in to to see the theatre. We had that to ourselves too! Glorious. We were able to get great pictures of the famous chandelier and ceiling painted by Chagall. Sandra said "would you like me to take a wee picture of you?" in her charming accent that sounded just like Charlie's mum from "So I Married an Axe Murderer". When I asked if she wanted me to take one of her, she said "good Christ no, me wee ass looks huge in pictures." Apparently wee is a multi-use word...

Since every surface of my feet is now damaged in some form or fashion, I was forced to buy some new shoes. Normally this would have been a wonderful and much-anticipated task, but I was forced to buy the only ones that would fit my swollen feet. Which turned out to be the world's ugliest shoes... Wait for it... Birkenstocks. Now I look not only like a tourist, but a lesbian too. So pissed to spend money on these.

Next we went to Madeline, a beautiful old church that looks like the Pantheon with Corinthean columns all around. We took a short walk up Rue du Cambon to (taking a deep breath to compose myself) the ORIGINAL Chanel store. This is where Coco lived and designed until her death, and this is where the famous mirrored staircase from which she would view her fashion shows from the top step is. Needless to say, my humiliation at walking these hallowed halls in Birkis was almost more than I could bear, but I was able to soldier on. I'm sure Coco turned over in her grave. My apologies...

After racing to the top floor of the Musee D'Orsay this morning, to get to the Impressionist wing before the crowds, we realized the entire place has been reorganized due to some renovations. The impressionist paintings are all on the ground floor now. Damn it anyway! Unfortunately, the space they now occupy is much smaller and it gets crowded fast, but it is still amazing. After a couple hours of looking around and using the handicap elevator because my feet hurt so bad (oh please, you know you would too) we had lunch in the stunning dining room with the painted ceiling, large gilt mirrors and huge chandeliers. And the food was
good too!

Next was the Musee Branly, which has primitive art from all over the world. I didn't expect to like it that much, but everything was displayed so beautifully, with very dark lighting. The grounds are all planted with exotic plants from all over the world and they have this living wall where plants grow up the side of the building. It is really spectacular.

Wandered over to the Eiffel, which always makes your heart skip a beat. Neither of us has the desire to get crammed into a tiny elevator with lots of other people in order to get to the top, so we just enjoyed it from the ground and from the Trocadero across the river.

I walked so much my feet are swollen so took a long hot bath. The narrow end of the tub is apparently the exact width of my ass, since there was water in front but none behind! When I tried to move so the water could flow, the suction was like quicksand. I thought I was going to have to call for help. To top off my humiliation, we then decided to go out for dessert. After I had washed off all traces of makeup and let my hair air dry! Anyone who knows me knows I NEVER go out like that. But the thought of a crepe or some pastry erased all embarassment. At least I was clean, which is more than I can say for many of my fellow metro riders.

Here's the best thing of all. It is 10PM and in the office across the street, whose windows I can look directly into, there is a guy in a business suit dancing on top if his desk while talking to another guy who's sitting at the next desk. He's looking in our windows, too, probably thinking we need to redecorate. :)